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Saqsaywamán, Perú: A Fortress, A Ceremony Site, or Both?
April 18, 2026
Hi, this is the third in a series of blogs written while I was visiting Cusco (Qosco), Perú. Qosqo is the traditional spelling, and it is still used throughout the city. First, in this blog, I'll be writing about my visits to some of the archaeological sites in the area, including Saqsaywamán (at the edge of the city), Huaca Pachatosa (in the city), Pacarina Mosoqllaqta (also in the city), Acueducto de Sapantiana (also in the city), Ollantaytambo, Tipón Archaeological Park, and Parque Arqueológico Pikillacta. I had hoped to visit more, but my time remaining in Perú, when my visitor entry stamp expires, is coming up fast.
Cusco and the Inca Capital
Cusco was the capital city of the Inca Empire. Cusco was actually built by the Incas; they laid out the streets, built the first plaza (the current Plaza de Armas), and built the city.
Saqsaywamán: Above the City
Saqsaywamán is a big site right on the edge of Cusco; you can see it from many parts of the city. It sits on top of a hill and overlooks the valley. There is an entry fee of 70 Soles (PEN). You can walk up to the site from downtown, which typically takes less than half an hour. Remember - you're at around 3300 meters (10,800 feet), so even if you're acclimated to the altitude, or drinking coca tea or chewing on coca leaves, you'll still find it hard to catch your breath. You'll feel walking much more easily when walking up an incline. If you pay attention to the locals, you'll see none of them are running up the stairs; they're walking slowly. Even for people living here their entire lives, they are still affected by the lower oxygen level. While the city sits at around 3300 meters, Saqsaywamán sits at 3700 meters (12,140 feet).
What Does Saqsaywamán Mean?
So, what does Saqsaywamán mean? It translates to the replete eagle, but that's not quite right, so let's use an interpretation, (fortress) of the royal eagle. Much better.
The Stones and Construction
Saqsaywamán construction was started in the 15th century and completed in the 16th. You've probably seen pictures of Inca (Inka) stones, their carved and fitted with precision unimaginable. And, not only do they fit together without mortar, but they are also carved around the edges so they have that "pillow" effect often seen with website buttons. Those stones weigh well into the high tens of tons. And they were not mined and cut here in this location. I spoke with an indigenous man up on top. He lives in a pueblo at a higher altitude, more than 4000 meters, and he said the stones came from areas some 3 to 4 kilometers away. He pointed to the areas to the east of Saqsaywamán. The exact methods of the Incas in cutting and moving the stones and constructing their buildings are unknown. This man talked about them using logs and ropes. Wikipedia mentions earthworks, ramps, and ropes. However it was done, the Spanish conquistador Francisco Pizzaro was highly impressed. Some of the stones are up to 9 meters (30 feet) tall. And they estimate it to be about 50 years to construct Saqsaywamán.
Those stones are not rough-hewn; they are smooth. And not just on the flat surfaces, but all around the edges and corners, as well. Without sandpaper or sanding machines? How they did that, I can't imagine. You can see in my photos just how smooth they are. Let alone getting them stacked, and some of the stones on top are much larger than the ones they're sitting on. Some of the stones are curved to make inside curves, the full wall height. Others are curved for the outside corners, again, full wall height. And those are also tapered up to the top. I think my photos give you a good idea of what I'm describing. Seeing these things on the internet, well, yeah, impressive, but seeing them for real is an experience not soon to be forgotten.
Much of what once stood at Saqsaywamán is no longer there. After the Spanish arrived in the 1530s, they dismantled large portions of the Inca structures, especially the upper buildings and towers. The carefully cut stones were taken down the hill and reused in construction throughout Cusco. Spanish colonial buildings, churches, and houses were built using stones taken directly from Saqsaywamán and other Inca sites. What remains today are mostly the massive lower walls, the stones that were simply too large and heavy for the Spanish to move.
This pattern can be seen throughout Cusco. In many places, the lower sections of walls are original Inca stonework, while the upper portions are Spanish colonial construction. The Spanish often removed the top meter or two of Inca walls, leveled them, and built their own structures directly on top. It created the layered look still visible today, with precisely fitted Inca stones forming the base and rougher colonial masonry above. Saqsaywamán likely once had far more buildings, towers, and ceremonial structures, but most of those were dismantled, leaving only the monumental foundations we see today.
Fortress or Ceremonial Site?
Researchers do not agree on what the primary use of Saqsaywamán was. It was either primarily a fortress, evidenced by the shape of the walls, or a place of worship.
The Fortress Theory
About it being a fortress: There are three walls of those very big stones, and each is a terraced level. The walls are not simply straight lines of stones; they zigzag. The design was to represent a puma's head (the puma was believed to be the guardian of earthly things). Three towers looked over the city below. One of the towers was round and 22 meters (72 feet) in diameter, and four stories tall (somewhere around 45 feet tall). The other two towers were square. Those who believe the fortress story suggest that the main open area was used to train thousands of warriors.
The Ceremonial Theory
About it being a ceremonial location: Some researchers believe the very large open area in the middle of Saqsaywamán was designed for religious ceremonies involving thousands of people rather than military drills. The Incas frequently built large ceremonial plazas for gatherings tied to their calendar and agricultural cycles. Some scholars also suggest the shapes and orientation of the terraces may relate to tracking solstices and equinoxes. Astronomy and religion were closely linked in Inca culture, particularly in ceremonies honoring the sun god Inti.
Today, the site still hosts the central celebration of Inti Raymi, the Festival of the Sun. While the modern event is a reconstruction, its location reinforces the long-standing belief that Saqsaywamán functioned as a ceremonial center. There is also the idea that Saqsaywamán formed part of a sacred alignment across Cusco. Some researchers claim the site lines up with Coricancha, the Cusco Cathedral (built over the temple of Inca Huiracocha), Colcampata, Huamanmarca, and other important Inca locations. Whether intentional or not, these alignments suggest the complex may have played a role in a larger sacred layout of the city.
My Opinion
I love hiking all over archeological sites. I did that at the coastal site Chan Chan and a few smaller sites. Saqsaywamán is wide open. You can walk almost everywhere. Yes, a few areas are roped off, but mostly for safety. The site offers sweeping views of the entire valley where Cusco sits. If you come to Cusco, don’t just run off to Machu Picchu, snap a few photos, and check it off your list. Saqsaywamán is absolutely worth the time.
References:
Marvelous Perú
Wikipedia - Saqsaywamán
Wikipedia - Inti Raymi
Perú ExplorerLeading Perú Travel
Britannica